How to Sew with Peppered Cottons

Peppered Cottons are 100% shot cotton fabrics that almost fall into the solid color category. The term ‘shot’ means that the weft is “shot through” the warp, but uses a discernibly different color thread. Because the warp (lengthwise threads) and the weft (side to side threads) are different colors, the resulting shades are muted and variable combinations of the original colors. For instance, a black warp thread plus a blue weft thread woven together makes for a very dark blue such as Ink color# 45. When a fabric like Ink is viewed from different angles, the blues and blacks produce subtly different visual effects. Above all, shot cottons have a tactile hand-woven quality and display deep colors well since all threads are dyed prior to weaving. There is no wrong or right side to shot cottons--a plus for quilt-makers. 

All shot cottons, after being woven, go through a finishing process where they are washed, dried and calendared. Calendaring is a heat-plus-pressing process which imparts a subtle sheen and a soft hand to the cotton fabric. The final step for the finished goods is to go through a double and rolling machine where the fabric is folded and wound tightly on to bolts. Calendaring disappears after washing. Art quilters, who do not need to wash their fabrics, can use shot cottons straight from the bolt, but most quilt-makers will want to wash the fabric prior to starting a quilt project. 

Keeping the fabric in its double and rolled form, slightly trim a little angled ‘ear’ from both selvedge edges of the length of fabric. Unfold the fabric. If washing small pieces of the fabric, put the shot cotton pieces into a lingerie bag or knotted pillow case (give the fabric room to move— not a tight knot). My preference is to wash in warm water and rinse in cold. Use the same sort of soap or detergent you would use to eventually clean a quilt. If washing multiple pieces, sort into several bags by color. Wash in a full tub of water and use a Color Catcher™ in the load. FYI: this step is to capture any excess dye particles. Peppered Cottons are color-fast! After washing, take the fabrics out of the bags and ‘fluff.’ Cut any loose threads at thattime. Re-insert the damp pieces loosely into their bags and dry about 20 minutes. Do not walk away and let the fabrics over-dry. Unfold the pieces and air-dry completely. If the pieces are small, you may iron them at this time. Most of the time, I snip any loose threads, fold the dry shot cottons yardage and store on shelves. Then when I’m ready to sew with the shot cottons, I only iron as much as I need of the fabric for that specific project. 

Washed and pressed Peppered Cottons have a slightly different hand than when they are on the bolt. The calendaring sheen rinses out and the weave firms up, giving the fabrics the hand (texture + weight) of good-quality unbleached muslin. The brilliant colors also slightly intensify when the light-reflective finish is gone. Because of the difference in finishing between on-the-bolt and washed Peppered Cottons, the best advice is to purchase all you will need for a project at one time and to treat that entire length of fabric in the same manner. In other words, no un-washed and washed Peppered Cotton colors should be mixed in the same project. Note that Peppered Cottons are a higher thread weight than most shot cottons which means that they blend well with regular-weight quilting fabrics. You can mix-and-match Peppered Cottons with fabrics from your stash with the assurance that they will stand up to use.

Before cutting patchwork pieces from the fabric, give it a light mist of spray starch and press. This step gives the fabric even more body. Align selvedges, especially if cutting with the grain, and cut pieces as usual. When sewing, use a good quality #50 or #60 100% cotton sewing thread and use your normal stitch length. Either match the color of thread to the fabric or choose a shade that will blend in well with your project like taupe, grey or khaki.

I like to spray-starch shot cotton yardage twice (spray both sides) when doing appliqué. Since appliqué requires a lot of handling, a little extra body never hurts, especially when doing needle-turn appliqué by hand. When performing sewing machine appliqué, sample a block first so you can adjust stitch type, length of stitch and your preferred weight of thread. In most cases, either #50 or #60 weight thread is a good choice for machine appliqué work.

Always use a clean iron. I prefer a lightweight nonstick-coated iron and I seldom use steam. When ironing shot cotton yardage and sewn patchwork, set your iron on Wool, the setting just below Cotton. A too-hot iron can cause crinkling at the edges of the cut patchwork. There is no need to work at any hotter setting than Wool.

When machine-quilting, use a new needle and again, a thin strong thread. I like a flat look in my quilts so prefer a thin cotton or wool batting--almost the flatness of flannel. For quilt backing, choose a quilting-weight cotton fabric, rather than more shot cottons, to give more density to the quilt.

If you hire a professional quilter, be willing to work with him/her in the event that he/she has had no experience with shot cottons. Tip: take the quilter a sandwiched block (top, batting, backing), using the same shot cottons used in your quilt top. This sample is so he/she can test his/her stitches. Make the bottom layer (backing) of the quilt sandwich using a regular weight cotton. Shot cottons are easy to quilt, but sometimes a professional quilter uses the same size needle for all tasks. FYI: you can tell when too large of a needle has been used in machine quilting--when the finished quilt is held to the light, tiny pin-holes appear and light shines through them. Hopefully, these miniscule holes close up after use and washing. To be sure, when quilting a shot cotton quilt, ask that your quilter use a new, slightly thinner needle and thinner thread for the best combination. You should plan on using a non-shot cotton quilt backing fabric. Work together with the quilter so you can achieve the finest final product.

When quilting by hand on shot cottons, I like to use a good quality thread. Thoroughly baste the three layers so they do not shift while working. The usual weight of hand quilting thread is #40. Since quilting stitches show so well on the surface of Peppered Cottons, this is a great opportunity to experiment with contrasting colors of thread. Or another option would be to try Big Stitch quilting using a #8 or #12 perle cotton.

After quilting, but before binding, run basting stitches completely around all sides of the quilt, especially if there are any cut bias edges that might stretch. Stitch in from the open cut edges of the quilt 1/8th inch. Basting can be done by either machine or hand. Leave basting stitches in place. After basting (which “closes up” the sandwich of top/batting/backing), decide if you want to trim the quilt exactly to its cut edges or leave a little batting/backing to plump up the binding. Cut binding either with the straight of grain or on the bias. If using shot cottons for the binding and cutting bias, another light spray of starch will help you handle the stretchy bias strips better.